Welcome to my small snippet of our 2021summer trip to Prince Edward Island (PEI), Canada. I’ve always referred to PEI as “God’s country.” If you haven’t been there, I’d highly recommend adding it to your bucket list to experience the magic of this Island. Maybe “my island” will become your island, too.
It was 735 days since I last visited Prince Edward Island. My husband flew there in February 2020 to visit his father, just before the first COVID-19 lockdown in Ontario. But for 18 months afterward, the daily COVID briefings and the nightly calls to my father-in-law were the only connections we had to that place: Until last month.
Armed with a supply of masks, hand sanitizer, and our PEI passes, we traveled through Ontario, Quebec, and New Brunswick.
This year we crossed from the mainland via the Confederation Bridge, but we prefer the ferry. The 75-minute trip across the Northumberland Strait is always enjoyable. I usually find a spot and lean against the rails on one of the ferry decks, waiting in great anticipation for a glimpse of the red cliffs. Though it takes longer than the 13-kilometer drive, it is time well spent.
PEI has become my second home since I flew there with my island-born husband the first summer after we met. After retiring from military life, his parents made their home there once again. We return to the island often, only missing a summer visit when we were house hunting, and of course, last year, with restricted access.
We quickly settled into island life, returning to our favorite spots, exploring the island, and best of all, antiquing and combing the shoreline for the most missed activity: beachcombing.
In town
I took the customary stroll on Richmond Street, known as Victoria Row. Without fail, a musician or two entertain the crowds on this pedestrian lane lined with shops and outdoor cafes. A walk around the surrounding area reveals a mix of old and new businesses. Beanz cafe was sold two years back. Corney’s shoe store, a place my mother-in-law shopped at regularly, is closed after 60 years. But Dow’s Fashions, another family-owned business, remains open in the uncrowded Confederation Court Mall. It was quiet around town for a place that was usually busy with visitors this time of year. Even the cruise ships were only scheduled to return in late fall.
We ate outside at Leonhard’s, ordered out at Khoaw Pon Authentic Thai, and drank several lemonades from Taters (known for their fresh-cut fries) during the heat spell. Receiver Coffee is a clear java favorite for many folks, including me. Their Brass Shop location is in one of the oldest buildings in Charlottetown and close to the waterfront.
Around the island
On our first day trip, we covered nine antique shops, including two new ones. I found some small items and a stained glass touch lamp while my husband bought some postcards. We went to New Haven, Hampton, North Tryon, Cape Traverse, Summerside, and Central Bedeque.
We made our usual stop to tiny Victoria. A walk around town took all of ten minutes before we headed to the waterfront.
This year marked the first time that my daughter was absent. Duty calls for a young professional, though I did miss her, especially our annual photoshoot on the pier. My husband snapped a lone shot of me, followed by a selfie of ourselves. It was a lovely day, and the tide was in. On one side of the dock, the fishermen were busy loading their gear. On the other shore, a group of paddleboarders lined the landscape making for a perfect picture.
On another day, we headed to Stanley Bridge and Cavendish. A stroll on the Cavendish boardwalk proved a tad busy despite the end of summer. We dropped in on Antiques and Vintage across the road to browse their pieces and picked up some linen mats and an old book.
We ordered fresh-cut fries at Stanley Bridge harbour from a new establishment. Stanley’s Fresh Seafood just opened in early August. It is such a pretty spot, and we will return again.
The shore
The heat and humidity for most of our stay were unforgiving. It even reached 37 degrees (Celsius), unusual for the island. So we delayed our plans and remained indoors.
Two days later, the temperature dropped four degrees, so we headed to Souris Beach, in the Northeast part of the island. On the way, we made a quick stop at a lone antique store. Several miniature vases filled with sea glass bits graced the windowsills. I asked the owner where all those tiny gems came from, and she confessed that a friend trades a stash of them for some of her wares.
I purchased one of those vases, as well as a teeny communion cup used to serve wine. The shop owner had discovered the cup in an old Presbyterian church. I secretly hope that my purchases do not foreshadow our beach hunt and that this friend of hers had not cleaned out the shore we were heading to.
Ironically, our hunt this year at Souris Beach was a bust. The timing was right with the tide out when we arrived, but the heat was still intolerable. We wiped our foreheads as the sun beat down on our backs while we scoured the seaside. We found several shell remnants and tiny glass bits, leaving behind those sharp fragments which needed more natural tumbling.
We decided to return to Rice Point, a place that yielded good results before, might bring us the same luck this year.
Rice Point is in the south-central part of PEI, my favorite part of the island, where the Argyle Shore and Canoe Cove lie. We arrived there mid-morning with the tide still halfway out. Unlike the sweltering day at Souris, the wind was borderline between warm and biting, so I wore a jacket. My rubber-soled hikers were better than flip flops to navigate the rocky shoreline, slippery where the waves had found their way inland.
I spied a few nuggets, each one tucked between some burly rock. These things were the best of our finds: a flat white glass fragment starting to frost with the edges smoothed out and two other bits.
There was a scattering of half-shells from surf clams, oysters and mussels, and the odd slipper shell. Though rare, many single and perfectly preserved small-sized cockle shells lay washed up on the sand and rocks. I picked up a few, aware of the precious ecosystem which many creatures rely on to survive.
Our third and last beachcombing trip took us to Tea Hill Provincial Park, just minutes away from home base. The beach and park rest on the south side of the island facing the Northumberland Strait. It was early morning, and the tide was all the way out, something we seldom experience. We were blessed with sun, a warm breeze, a walk on the shore, and the few shells we found. A cricket match had begun at the park, in contrast to the silence at the beach.
We spent our last afternoon at Victoria Park, the largest city park in Charlottetown and right on the waterfront. A new floating dock was installed in 2019. Originally planned to remain attached until October of that year, it continues to be there. In 2020 the structure was expanded to make it easier for people to spread out. We sat on one of the benches affixed to the dock, enjoying the view with the sailboats in the distance. As our bench rocked in rhythm to the waves, I treasured the value of these simple pleasures on the island I love.
My “best” recommendations:
Best fish and chips: Water St. Fish and Chips
Best lunch spot: Leonhard’s
Best food overall: Khoaw Pon Authentic Thai
Best Coffee: Receiver Coffee
Antiques
(From http://peiantiquestrail.com/central-coastal-drive)
Tole Treasures and Antiques
Island Uniquities and Antiques
Ice Boat Rarities and Antiques
Rose Cottage Antiques and Gifts
Back Home Antiques and Collectibles
Beachcombing
Eastern PEI: Souris Beach
South shore: Rice Point
Stratford: Tea Hill Provincial Park
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